A Field Guide to the New England Lawn.

Mow high, mow often

Set the deck at 3 to 3.5 inches and never take off more than a third of the blade in one cut. Taller grass grows deeper roots, holds moisture through July, and shades out crabgrass before it gets started.

Crew TipScalping the lawn to “buy a week” costs you a month. Cut high, cut weekly.

Water deep, not daily

A New England lawn wants about an inch of water a week, rain included — delivered in one or two deep soakings, early in the morning. Daily light sprinkling trains roots to stay shallow, which is exactly what you don’t want in August.

Crew TipSet an empty tuna can on the lawn while you water. When it’s full, you’ve done your inch.

Fall is for seeding — not spring

Late August through late September is the window: the soil is still warm, the weeds are fading, and new grass gets two cool growing seasons before its first summer. Spring seeding fights crabgrass for the same ground and usually loses.

Don’t let the leaves sit

A light scattering can be mulched right into the turf with the mower. But a matted blanket of wet leaves smothers grass, blocks the last weeks of fall growth, and sets the stage for snow mold once the first storm lands on top of it.

Crew TipThe last cleanup of the year matters most — go into winter with the lawn clean and cut.

Keep the blade sharp

A dull mower blade tears grass instead of cutting it. Torn tips brown within a day and open the door to disease — it’s the most common reason a freshly mowed lawn looks tired. Sharpen two or three times a season.

The edges make the lawn

Crisp edges along walks, beds, and the driveway are ten percent of the work and ninety percent of the impression. If you do nothing else before guests arrive: edge, trim, and blow the hard surfaces clean.